Héliopolis

Héliopolis is neither a campsite nor a hotel: it is the naturist quarter of the Île du Levant, off Hyères, founded in 1931 by the doctors André and Gaston Durville. It is a private domaine that is nonetheless open to the public, run by the owners' association (ASL), whose responsibilities include the water network and the Arbousiers reserve; it covers about a tenth of the island, the rest being a closed military zone. There is no single booking system: you stay with one of some sixty independent operators, among them hotels, rooms, studios, houses and safari tents (Héliotel, Le Youkali, Villa Marie-Jeanne and many others), each with its own rules, and these include a hotel reserved for swingers, La Brise Marine; many are listed on the traders' association website, iledulevant.com.fr. No naturist membership card is needed. Nudity is governed by a municipal order: it is the rule along the sea, including the only sandy beach, the Plage des Grottes, clothing is optional in the rest of the domaine, and nudity is prohibited at the port and in public buildings; you may cross the village square naked, but to stop there you need at least the minimum, the small triangle of fabric traditional to the place, and inside bars and other venues each manager decides. The only way to get there is by boat, from Le Lavandou or Hyères, all year round but with fewer crossings out of season: in high season you can also come just for the day, in the colder months not always. There are no cars or bicycles (you walk up), no street lighting and no cash machines; tap water is not drinkable and smoking is not allowed on the paths and corniches. Children are welcome, with a week of dedicated activities in July; dogs must be kept on a lead and whether they are welcome depends on the accommodation. In summer, when the domaine reaches about 1500 people, there are dances in the square, concerts and markets, while in winter only some of the accommodation stays open. Those who keep coming back appreciate the calm, the absence of cars and the way everyone says hello; some warn that there are plenty of climbs and that everything on the island is expensive.